Quick Bite: San Telmo and Yelp’s False Gems

Oh, and basically a whole forest of arugula.

Generally I find Yelp to be a pretty useful tool for finding new and interesting restaurants to try, but it’s also far from perfect. In particular, Yelpers seem to vastly overrate many of the perfectly unremarkable mom-and-pop spots, international cuisines and delis. Don’t misunderstand: There are certainly restaurants in these categories that truly shine. But often Yelp’s glowing consensus can be utterly baffling.

This phenomenon came to mind when I stopped by San Telmo, an Argentine sandwich joint downtown. When the place I’d planned to go was closed (private event), I thought, why not try the place right next door with the coveted 5-star Yelp rating?

The food was fine. Average. A little boring, actually. And since dull food makes for dull writing, I won’t spend too much time on it. Suffice it to say my chicken empanada was a bit dry, a bit under-seasoned and generally pretty plain. The San Telmo sandwich was slightly better, with herb-dressed mushrooms and a nice note of sharpness from the Swiss cheese. But the pesto aioli was underwhelming and a bit grassy, while the ribeye was a little overdone and seemed to be seasoned exclusively with salt. You’d think the dish named after the restaurant would be one to really shine, but all I got was a decent deli sandwich.

I feel a little bad about picking on a restaurant that isn’t by any means bad. It just happened to bring to mind an odd blind spot on an otherwise fairly reliable site. Why do people feel compelled to give such radiant reviews to places that don’t stand out in any apparent way?

One reason, I think, is that people develop an emotional attachment to their neighborhood restaurant, the same way they do for the local sports team. Another probably stems from people’s desire to find the diamond in the rough, to have coveted insider information, to be a trendsetter. I can certainly sympathize—it’s great being a world-famous elite influencer, loved and respected by all. But let me humbly contend that not everyone can be this unfathomably awesome. And when people let wishful thinking cloud their judgment, it prevents people from finding the places that really do deserve all the accolades.

Score: 5 out of 10

P.S. I wish this place were really great so I could have titled this post "San Telmo's Fire."

Quick Bite: Pho Cow Cali Is the World's Fastest Decent Sit-Down Restaurant

Sorry, no time for a better photo.
15 minutes, remember?

Sometimes, there's just no time in the day for a decent meal—or so I thought, until Mira Mesa's Pho Cow Cali proved otherwise.

There are days when I only have a half hour between appointments for a late lunch. Factor in driving, and it seems like an impossibly narrow sliver of time—yet Cali makes it happen. The logistics of it are a thing of beauty. Let's walk through a meal together (with some recommended musical accompaniment):

2:26pm: I'm in and seated. I'm handed a menu, but I already know what I want: the #44, rice vermicelli with egg rolls and BBQ pork. I double-check the menu to confirm the number.

2:27: The waiter is back with a glass of water. I order and take a quick restroom break.

2:29: I return just as lunch arrives, a steaming bowl of noodles, meat and veggies. I ask for the check right away, then quickly slather the vermicelli in red chili sauce and dig in.

2:35: My check is paid, the entire transaction complete in under ten minutes. The only limiting factor is my slow eating.

2:41: I get up to leave. As exit, I check my phone, then double-take in disbelief: It's been 15 minutes since I walked in.

The kicker is that the food is really quite good. The bowl is piping hot, filled to the brim. Rice noodles are hard to get wrong, sure—especially not with a half gallon of chili sauce. The pork, though, is savory with a hint of sweetness, fat expertly rendered into tenderness and topped with scallions. Only a couple of slightly chewy pieces keep it from being perfect. The egg roll has that delicious, subtle tangy funk that egg rolls often have. It's satisfying and crisp, though the outer layer could do with a little more crunch. The sweet pickled carrot and daikon is a punchy contrasting flavor.

Pho Cow Cali is remarkable not just for speed and relative quality, but its consistency, too. If I go in on a mission, I'll be out in 15 minutes every time like clockwork. Who says you can't eat well on your lunch break?

Score: 7 out of 10

Quick Bite: Cali Banh Mi

A couple months back, Kearny Mesa staple Cali Banh Mi opened their second location in east PB. Since then I've stopped by probably three or four times, and on the whole I like what I've seen.

The interior is small but chic, with lots of natural light and a white and gold color scheme. There's also a little side patio to hang out on, which seems nice, though honestly this is more of a to-go spot for me.

I've gotten the savory BBQ pork banh mi a couple of times. It's only four bucks, and while it's not massive sandwich, it's just the right amount to fill me up. Visually, the red and green colors from the pork and veggies are bright and appealing nestled in the light and crunchy baguette. The pork is sweet and savory, with definite notes of black pepper sprinkled in and a touch of garlic aioli spread. The foliage is plentiful here: cilantro, jalapeño, cucumber, pickled carrots and daikon. I would have preferred a little less cucumber, and the pickled veggies are actually pretty mild and could have used just a bit more sharpness. For the most part, though, it's a fresh and delicious lunch option.

On those days where I feel like I deserve the royal treatment, the surf & turf banh mi (for the kingly sum of eight dollars) is another way to go. The other fixings are the same, but the pork is swapped for ribeye and black pepper shrimp. The savory, meaty flavors from the ribeye and the sweet, buttery seafood are a great combination. The ribeye could benefit from a lighter cook, but that's my only real gripe.

Though Cali Banh Mi is near one of the busiest intersections of San Diego, it's in a slightly odd location without much else around it to attract business. At least Muscle Mill, the previous fast casual joint to occupy the space, had the advantage of catering to the nearby gym. Hopefully it manages to do well there, since it's a simple, dependable lunch choice for days on the go.

Score: 7 out of 10 (Very Good)

Quick Bite: Monkey King

What exactly is Monkey King? A lot of things, it seems: A cocktail bar, a dim sum spot, and a pan-Asian restaurant. It's cool, trendy, and just about the least authentic place you can go for some Chinese food. Amy and I decided to venture into the wilds of the Gaslamp Quarter this past week to try it out.

The interior is decorated in a funky jungle theme, complete with mock trees above the central bar and a "no evil" monkeys motif. Since it was a quiet Wednesday, we were immediately seated in a comfy side booth without any problem.

The most exciting culinary flourish of the night came right at the beginning. They put down a plate of crispy fried wonton skins and what looked from the texture like one of those cloyingly sweet chile sauces. I was surprised, though, to find that a bright and unusual blend of flavors somewhere between a sweet red chile sauce and a salsa. It sounds bizarre, but it was actually the perfect balance of tangy and slightly sweet with a spicy kick. When I inquired, the waiter explained that it was their house mézé (?) sauce, a pomegranate base blended with herbs, Fresno chiles and white wine vinegar. Weird, yet wonderful.

Our drinks were tasty though not too unusual. Amy's Salt Collins was, as advertised, a bit salty from the salted plum-infused rum, but was otherwise very much a Tom Collins, right down to the touches of citrus. The Mai Tai I had was tropical and classic, with a tinge of almondy orgeat in the aftertaste.

Since we changed our appetizer order from calamari to hamachi sashimi. The tender slices were laid in a base of ginger soy and topped with a basic seaweed salad and red chiles. It was fairly simple yet mouthwateringly good, layered with toasted sesame and a heaping dose of heat.

Cashew chicken isn't exciting to look at
so here's hamachi instead.

The entrées weren't bad, but seemed to be stuck in a creative rut. My cashew chicken was lightly spicy and a little sweet, with cashews toasted to bring out their nutty flavor. I appreciated the delicately sautéed scallions and the fresh crunch of water chestnut. Nothing much to complain about, but then, nothing to rave about either. Amy's honey lemongrass chicken was, in a word, boring. That's not to say it was flavorless—it was mildly honey-sweet with strong onion overtones—just that it was lacking in complexity. Even the lemongrass was MIA.

There are certainly dishes to like at Monkey King, but it seems the optimal strategy is to skip the too-conventional entrées and double down on the drinks and dim sum (which, really, is just their word for appetizers). And put that sauce on everything, because why not?

Score: 6.5 out of 10 (Good)

Quick Bite: Mutual Friend

A friendly name for a friendly place.

It's always fun when I just stumble on a place I've researched and I get to go, "Ohhh, so that's where that is." Today I was stopping off for gas when across the street I noticed Mutual Friend, a newly-opened ice cream shop in Golden Hill, beckoning me with promises of sweet treats. I got the gas pumping and made my way over.

I sampled the Grandpa Badger's Citrus—in part because of the hilariously old-timey name. It's a zesty mix of lemon, lime and orange with a pleasant brightness. For me, though, it leaned a bit too far into orange territory, particularly in the aftertaste. Texturally, at least, all the ice cream I tried was rich and creamy—just the way it's meant to be.

I settled on two other flavors. The Roasted Banana Peanut Butter Cup was very much what it sounded like: It had a very sweet, fruity flavor almost like a one-ingredient frozen banana "ice cream". The peanut butter cup mix-in was a bit on the stingy side, authentically nutty without much in the way of chocolate.

The Happy Camper was definitely the best of the three I tried (and it's seasonal, so get it while it lasts). Essentially, it's "bourbon and s'mores" flavor. They mixed a nice milk chocolate ice cream with a generous helping of bourbon, and the result is sweet, boozy and tremendously good. The only issue, again, is that the mix-in was lacking; I only got a couple of cinnamony graham cracker bits.

For both of these flavors, in fact, a bit more mix-in would have really added some crunch and cut through the sameness of taste and texture. As it is, though, I appreciate Mutual Friend's willingness to experiment with some slightly unusual flavors without trying to completely reinvent the form. It seems they're going for a classic, friendly small-town vibe updated with a touch of modern style, and overall I'd say they've hit the mark.

Score: 7 out of 10 (Very Good)

Quick Bite: Poke It

For some reason this interior design makes
me crave watermelon. Can't imagine why.

These days, you can't walk down the street without accidentally stumbling into a poké joint. It takes some wild creativity to stand out from the literally dozens of raw fish shops lining the sidewalk like so many toppled electric scooters.

Poke It in Hillcrest has made an admirable effort, though. Billing themselves as "premium raw with a Mexican twist, they naturally offer the now-pedestrian poké bowl and nori-wrapped burrito. But they venture further, toying with the limits of seafood propriety: riceburgers (with crispy rice as the bun), ricetadas (crispy rice tostadas), and tacos made with fried, panko-crusted nori shells. When will the madness end?

Today I stopped by for the salmon al pastor tacos. They were a bit small, but four to an order. The most impressive thing about them, I think, was actually the shell. I expected them to be brittle, breaking apart and leaving behind a pile of taco debris. But no! Though crunchy, they had just the right amount of give so as not to break apart, aided by a bed of white rice acting as a shock absorber. These shells had an addictive, snacky texture; they really ought to be on store shelves for bingeing at home.

Will man's hubris ever be quenched?

When I ordered, my one concern was that when the menu described "cooked" adobo salmon, it really meant "overcooked." As it turned out, I was right to worry: The chunks of salmon had the grainy well-done texture that every seafood lover dreads. The adobo marinade was okay—it was pleasantly salty and savory, but the flavor profile didn't go much deeper than that.

Thankfully, the salmon texture was mostly masked by all the other ingredients: The tang of the pickled onion, the creamy guacamole to complement the shell, the sweet and spicy pineapple with a hint of cinnamon, and an herbaceous dash of oregano. The flavors sound a bit odd together, and are a bit strong on their own, but when combined they balance each other to form a cohesive whole.

I'm a sucker for innovation. These tacos were far from perfect, but there's a lot I can forgive when a restaurant is willing to try something different. While I'm not in a rush to return, eventually the call of ricetadas will be enough to draw me back in.

Score: 6.5 out of 10 (Good)

Quick Bite: Garlic Shack

[Insert vampire joke here]

The restaurant business is tough—and arguably the toughest part to nail is consistency. To maintain a fully stocked inventory, professional customer service and top-notch food quality is an incredible feat of logistics, one that most diners seldom stop to think about.

That's because when a restaurant is run well, they shouldn't have to. Unfortunately Garlic Shack, unfortunately, broke that cardinal rule on the two occasions I tried it.

I walk though the door of the Shack for the first time. It has a funky, grungy aesthetic that matches its name: Wooden picnic-table style seating, corrugated metal sheeting as an accent wall. The words "GARLIC SHACK" are stenciled everywhere. I can kinda dig it.

When I go to order the spicy belly banh mi (#sorrynotsorry), the friendly teen behind the counter informs me they just ran out—like, the minute before I came in. Oops. I reluctantly scan the menu and order the chimichurri steak fries.

They're delicious. The fries themselves are crunchy, greasy and wonderful, topped with a great chimichurri packed full of herbs and vinegar tang. The cheese has that satisfyingly gooey, stretchy consistency. Oh, and of course, there are eleven metric tons of garlic—almost enough to counteract the negative health effects I'm sustaining by consuming a pile of cheese, meat and fried potato. The steak is well-seasoned—even the thyme comes through—but it's cooked nearly well done rather than medium as I asked for. Still, I depart from the Shack contented, with garlic on my breath and optimism in my heart.

I return the next week for another banh mi attempt. Incredibly, it's the same story: They're still out of the pork belly. I ask if there's a specific time this item is available, but the chef apologetically explains through the ticket window that no, this is "just the way it goes," because "everything is made to order." Since this is true of any decent restaurant, I find this rationale... confusing. And anyway, shouldn't you be sure to have enough of any ingredient that's key to three of your menu items?

It's not as good as it looks. Curse my photography skills.

Halfheartedly, I ask for Korean beef noodle bowl. It's... well, it's not great. The tiny spoon I'm given is comically insufficient for the enormous bowl of soup. The noodles are clumped together. The broth is okay, meaty and spicy but quite salty. The bowl feels like it's missing something, and looking back over the menu I realize why: The enoki mushrooms, bamboo shoots and garlic chips are all mysteriously absent.

I don't bother asking about them. I know what the answer will be.

Believe or not, I wouldn't be surprised if I had a good time at Garlic Shack if I ever returned—it's just that the experience is just too hit and miss to know for sure. Their problem isn't that they're incapable of making good food. It's that they haven't learned how to be a restaurant.

Score: 4 out of 10 (Mediocre)

Quick Bite: Ramen Ryoma

In my estimation, Tajima ruled the realm of San Diego ramen for years. Then, in 2017, a challenger appeared: the wildly popular Menya Ultra gave them a run for their money with an absolutely killer bowl. Still, I'm always looking for a place that can dethrone this newly-formed top tier.

Will Ramen Ryoma in Kearny Mesa be the one? Well... no. (Really built up the suspense there, didn't I?) It was good and a little different, but it didn't quite measure up.

I got the spicy miso ramen, which comes with chashu, spicy ground meat, bean sprouts, seaweed and green onion. What I really didn't enjoy was the ground meat. Before mixing it in, it was actually cold; I know it's designed to be mixed in, but it's really unappetizing in a steaming hot dish. The texture reminded me of coarse ground turkey—again, not something I especially want in my ramen.

The meat also contained all the spice of the dish, though, which diffused nicely into the broth, turning it from light and buttery to spicy and hearty. The noodles were springy and satisfyingly al dente. The best part was the chashu: a single enormously thick slab, meltingly tender and roasty. The nori was okay, though I prefer it more crisp and less... floppy. The green onion and sprouts, though, added a lovely fresh finish.

Ramen Ryoma may be aiming to start an empire; they're in the process of opening up shop in Hillcrest and Pacific Beach. Will they eventually expand enough to challenge Tajima's dominance? I tend to think not. They can make a serviceable bowl of ramen, but they'll need an infusion of personality and some culinary fine-tuning before they can take on the greats.

Score: 6 out of 10 (Decent)

Quick Bite: Banker's Hill Bar & Restaurant

I'm running behind on write-ups! Last Sunday we had brunch at Banker's Hill Bar & Restaurant. (I'll give you one guess where it's located.) I remember them for having the best fries in the city, but all of their food pretty much knocks it out of the park.

I get the BLT (and subbed truffle fries in place of the house chips because I'm not an animal). It's a good, pretty classic sandwich, with toasty french bread, well-crisped bacon and garlic aioli for an extra flourish. The fries are, well, tremendous. They're thin-cut, matchstick style, thin and crunchy with only the occasional chew in the center. The truffle flavor is prominent without being overpowering (as is easy to do). There's just a hint of sweetness from who-knows-where, melded with crumbles of rich salty Parmesan and a bit of parsley. And then, just when you thought you'd had enough: thick, savory, buttery truffle aioli with a hint of grain mustard. Amazing. Addictive. To die for.

Amy gets an Asian pear and roasted beet salad, which comes with frisée, candied walnuts, goat cheese and a sherry vinaigrette. It's hard to order salad on a menu with so many temptations, but this is a legitimately tasty, healthy alternative. It's fresh and sweet and light. The crunch of walnuts adds a nice texture, as does the creamy goat cheese. Go for it, then sneak some fries off the plate of a more indulgent dining companion.

Note: I cannot be held responsible for what may happen if you attempt to steal these truffle fries.

We're enjoying this meal, minding our own business, when a plate lowers from the heavens containing a cinnamon roll the size of a child's head. We've made too many, they tell us. You've come to the right people for help, is what I should have said, but instead I utter a startled thank you and dig in.

This cinnamon roll is not for the faint of heart—no, really, your heart might actually faint from the caloric overload. But it's worth it. It's rich and sweet, momentarily crisp before you bite through your piece to the thick chewy center. The generous layer of icing has a hint of tang from the cream cheese, and there's a light drizzle of salted caramel over the top. I abandon my sandwich; I'll ask for a box later. This is more pressing.

Banker's Hill isn't exactly a hidden gem. It's pretty well known, but it's clearly under-appreciated; only a few other parties were there on a lovely Sunday afternoon. Go, grab some fries, and who knows? Maybe if you're lucky, the cinnamon roll fairy will smile upon you, too.

Score: 9 out of 10 (Fantastic)

Quick Bite: Chaba Thai Kitchen

Well, I'm doing it. I'm reviewing a Thai place post-Kin Khao. Chaba Thai Kitchen is a hole-in-the-wall spot in Kearny Mesa that I chose for after-work lunch mostly based on decent reviews and an $8 lunch special.

Service was prompt but not exactly cordial: The server greeted me, pointed to a seat, and handed me a menu all while on the phone with a customer. Not a great first impression.

I was immediately given a small bowl of a broth-based tofu and veggie soup that was surprisingly good. It was warm and fragrant, garlicky and spicy with a strong cilantro flavor. I'd choose it over chicken soup if I was feeling under the weather, no question.

My green Thai curry chicken combo came with a heap of white rice, a curry puff and a cream cheese wonton. These latter two were lukewarm and looked kinda sad, as they seemed understuffed and the puff was slightly stale. The flavors were decent and they probably would've been pretty tasty if they were fresh from the fryer. The flavors on the curry were pretty spot-on: lemongrassy, slightly sweet and moderately spicy, exactly what one would expect. The consistency of the curry was more brothy than creamy, though, and the bamboo shoots were a bit sinewy. In short, everything tasted right, but the textures left a lot to be desired.

Maybe it's just me—maybe my love of Thai has been broken forever—but this was really just okay. It's a pretty good value, but I can't help but think there other Thai places in San Diego that'll really nail the combination of a great meal at a low price.

Score: 5.5 out of 10 (Fair)

Quick Bite: Eureka!

The Fresno Fig burger, because mine
just looked like boring meat.

Sunday lunch was at Eureka! at UTC. I'm not a huge burger fan, so I'm certain that purists will disagree with me here, but this is probably my favorite burger place in the city.

The Fresno fig burger is one of the bougiest you'll ever see. It's fruity and sweet from the fig marmalade, but has a good salt level from the bacon and goat cheese. It's topped with arugula and porter mustard just to make sure you know it's fancy. The fries that came with our burgers were pretty standard, light in color and a little on the floppy side, but good for dipping. They came with a tangy ketchup, and we asked for some aioli too, which was garlicky and ranch-like.

I had the Eureka punch to drink, which was strong and tropical with pineapple, white rum and simple syrup. My bone marrow burger was, in a word, buttery. It was literally dripping with fatty goodness—in a good way, as long as you ignore how absurdly unhealthy it undoubtedly is. There weren't any really assertive flavors here; it had just a little acidity from the roasted tomato and the mustard aioli. Beyond that, it was just a tsunami of umami.

When my dad's turkey chipotle burger on lettuce arrived, the plate had so much greenery it looked like a salad. It wasn't half bad, seasoned with some distinctly southwestern spices. The charred tomato salsa, avocado and feta toppings are almost enough to make you forget you're eating... turkey.

The blackened fish tacos were also pretty tasty. The blackened seasoning combined with the mango salsa gave them a vaguely Caribbean vibe. I would have liked a slightly shorter cook time on the fish, though.

Eureka is in the business of Elevated Burgers, and that means cramming them with loads of fancy toppings. If you're in it purely for the ground beef experience, this is not the place for you. But if you, like me, believe the patty is merely a canvas on which to paint an elaborate work of burger art, it's worth a visit.

Score: 7 out of 10 (Very Good)

Quick Bite: Rakitori Japanese Pub & Grill

Yes, I eat a lot of pork belly.
The first step is admitting you have a problem.

Sunday lunch was a trip to Rakitori Japanese Pub & Grill on University Avenue, a cozy dimly lit spot near the center of Hillcrest. They serve a wide assortment of Japanese cuisine including sushi, ramen and yakitori.

We decided to start off splitting some skewers. The bacon-wrapped enoki skewers were very nice, salty with a peculiar bite from the threadlike mushrooms. The bacon could have been a bit crisper. The pork belly was deliciously savory with the right amount of fat and a slight char.

We ordered one roll, the Surprise Me, which contrary to its name was nothing all that shocking. It had spicy tuna inside, salmon outside, and the only unusual part was the garlic mustard sauce, which was good but milder than it sounds. Tasty overall, but not a standout.

My wife's rice bowl consisted was topped with broccoli, carrot, lettuce and a generous helping of pork belly, topped with teriyaki sauce and a bit of green onion. It was a pretty simple dish since much of it was just white rice and steamed veggies, but the pork was tender and lightly sweet from the sauce.

I had the spicy tonkotsu ramen, which was excellent. It was a large bowl full of thin-style noodles and savory broth, with a layer of (moderately spicy) chile oil on top. The other elements all integrated well into the dish: sweet corn, soy-glazed medium-boiled egg, the soft juicy pork belly, scallion and a hint of ginger. This would be a great bowl to warm up with on a rainy day. All in all, some of the better ramen I've had, which is impressive considering it's not necessarily their specialty.

Based on the name, Rakitori could easily be a place that does skewers well but not much else. Instead, it's mostly successful in taking on a lot of different styles of Japanese cuisine. It's probably a good place to come with a group, as there's sure to be something to suit every taste—and there'll be more plates to sample, too.

Score: 8 out of 10 (Superior)

Quick Bite: Atypical Waffle Co.

"Why yes, as a matter of fact those are vintage stadium seats.
Thanks for noticing. Have we mentioned we're atypical?"

Atypical Waffle Co. is an odd place. Partly hidden behind a laundromat, it's easy to miss unless you know where to look. But then, as you walk through the large opened gate (there's no real door), you feel like you've stepped into something that's part patio, part commune. The employees are friendly and laid-back almost to a fault. There's funky graffiti art everywhere—from the replica Banksy on the wall to the Obey Giant posters sprawled across the movable oversized coffee table—underscoring the countercultural vibe. Towards the back, there's a large tent in the shape of a classic Volkswagen bus.

Sooo, yeah. An odd place.

So much so that the waffles seem a bit tame by comparison, though they still have their quirks. They are in fact a special type of Belgian waffle, the Liège waffle, which uses chunks of pearl sugar in the dough to create a dense, lightly sweet bite.

I've been twice, and both times I got The Number Seven—with candied bacon, goat cheese and avocado it just seems the obvious choice on the savory side. Unfortunately, this time were out of their lilikoi (aka passionfruit) lemonade, which was refreshing and deliciously tropical when I had it previously.

The Number Seven is very respectable (and appropriately atypical) waffle. It's a wonderful mix of flavors: You get some tanginess from the goat cheese, salt from the bacon, and sweetness from the bacon's brown sugar crust and the waffle itself, along with a nice avocado creaminess. When you manage to corral all those ingredients together into one bite, it's heavenly. (That's easier said than done, though, since the avocado's plunked in the center, and the cheese crumbles tend to roll off and onto the tray.) Also, it's a small thing, but both times the avocado has been a bit stringy; while they don't affect flavor, those little brown fibers just aren't so appetizing.

Yeah, I wasn't kidding about the tent.

"Atypical Waffle" is clearly the right name for this place (and an improvement on "Wow Wow Waffle," its previous moniker). It's the sort of spot that I won't visit very often, but I'm really glad to know exists in our city. Because after all, who doesn't need a little oddity and a tasty waffle in their lives once in a while?

Score: 7.5 out of 10 (Great)

Quick Bite: Oi Asian Fusion

I tried Oi the other day because it seemed like an ideal lunch stop: intriguing Asian-fusiony protein-and-rice bowls at a reasonable price. I ended up slightly disappointed.

I ordered the Adobo Bowl ($9), which the girl at the counter said was the most popular. It comes with braised pork belly, adobo sauce, soft boiled egg and scallions. I splurged an extra 60 cents for garlic rice instead of regular.

Good news first: the pork belly itself was really good, tender and crispy with the right level of fattiness. The egg was just runny enough to add a nice creaminess to the mix. The scallions were tasty as expected and provided a little freshness to offset all the pork... just not quite enough.

The adobo sauce was a little on the sweet side, but the main issue with this bowl—and I know this sounds crazy, but hear me out—is that it actually went overboard on pork belly. This was just crying out for some sautéed broccoli, maybe a few fried garlic chips, something to add more variety and balance all that heaviness. I'm also about 95% sure they forgot about the garlic rice—either that or there was only enough garlic in there to be detectible with scientific instruments.

This really wasn't that bad. The flavors were mostly good, though it tasted increasingly like sauce near the end. But leaving Oi, my first thought was that I felt like I had a rock in my stomach, and the second was that they were close to an awesome dish, but not quite there. I may well return since there's a lot of other stuff on the menu, but I'm not feeling any sense of urgency.

Score: 5.5 out of 10 (Fair)

Quick Bite: Smokeyard BBQ

Typical Sundays for me involve lunch and maybe a movie with my wife and parents. This week we tried out Smokeyard BBQ & Chop Shop, a relatively new addition to UTC Mall. I know barbecue snobs—er, connoisseurs—have some very strong opinions, so hopefully I don't offend anyone by saying that the barbecue game here is pretty strong.

The best things I tried were the St. Louis spare ribs with Smokeyard sauce and, surprisingly, the BBQ chips. The ribs had that classic tender, falling-off-the-bone texture that's made them a Southern staple, coated but not smothered in a balanced sweet but tangy sauce. They'll be my choice on any future return trip.

That plate came with barbecue chicken, which was fairly moist and tender but couldn't really measure up to the ribs. (Then again, they're ribs—few things can!) The side was a sweet potato mash with pecans. It had a nice autumn sweetness, though to me the appeal of those flavors tends to wear thin after a few bites.

My fried chicken sandwich was pretty tasty. It had a lightly sweet brioche bun and juicy chicken with the gratifying crunch you get from a thick batter. They went a little heavy on the peri-peri sauce, though, which tasted much like a buffalo sauce. That flavor often dominated, so it was hard to appreciate the lime aioli, red chili and slaw. The accompanying fries had a nice slightly irregular texture but were pretty forgettable with their complex flavor profile of... salt. (Combined with a thrilling side of... Heinz ketchup.)

Amy's pulled pork sandwich was better than I expected. All too often pulled pork is drowning in cloyingly sweet sauce, but that wasn't the case here at all. Combining the same balanced house BBQ sauce as the ribs with a slight tang from the pickled onion made for a solid plate—especially since that plate included the surprise standout of the meal, the housemade barbecue chips. They had a great salty crunch with touches of sugar and smokiness. The seasoning could be a little more evenly spread, but if they solve that, they should be bagging these and shipping them around the country.

Now that UTC Mall is putting the finishing touches on its massive renovation, has finally come into its own as a food destination: its lineup now includes Larsen's, Great Maple, Eureka, Sweetfin Poke and Din Tai Fung, to name a few. Though it may not stand out among this group of upscale eateries, Smokeyard certainly fits right in.

Score: 7.5 out of 10 (Great)