Monday, October 22, 2018

Quick Bite: Banker's Hill Bar & Restaurant

I'm running behind on write-ups! Last Sunday we had brunch at Banker's Hill Bar & Restaurant. (I'll give you one guess where it's located.) I remember them for having the best fries in the city, but all of their food pretty much knocks it out of the park.

I get the BLT (and subbed truffle fries in place of the house chips because I'm not an animal). It's a good, pretty classic sandwich, with toasty french bread, well-crisped bacon and garlic aioli for an extra flourish. The fries are, well, tremendous. They're thin-cut, matchstick style, thin and crunchy with only the occasional chew in the center. The truffle flavor is prominent without being overpowering (as is easy to do). There's just a hint of sweetness from who-knows-where, melded with crumbles of rich salty Parmesan and a bit of parsley. And then, just when you thought you'd had enough: thick, savory, buttery truffle aioli with a hint of grain mustard. Amazing. Addictive. To die for.

Amy gets an Asian pear and roasted beet salad, which comes with frisée, candied walnuts, goat cheese and a sherry vinaigrette. It's hard to order salad on a menu with so many temptations, but this is a legitimately tasty, healthy alternative. It's fresh and sweet and light. The crunch of walnuts adds a nice texture, as does the creamy goat cheese. Go for it, then sneak some fries off the plate of a more indulgent dining companion.

Note: I cannot be held responsible for what may happen if you attempt to steal these truffle fries.


We're enjoying this meal, minding our own business, when a plate lowers from the heavens containing a cinnamon roll the size of a child's head. We've made too many, they tell us. You've come to the right people for help, is what I should have said, but instead I utter a startled thank you and dig in.

This cinnamon roll is not for the faint of heart—no, really, your heart might actually faint from the caloric overload. But it's worth it. It's rich and sweet, momentarily crisp before you bite through your piece to the thick chewy center. The generous layer of icing has a hint of tang from the cream cheese, and there's a light drizzle of salted caramel over the top. I abandon my sandwich; I'll ask for a box later. This is more pressing.

Banker's Hill isn't exactly a hidden gem. It's pretty well known, but it's clearly under-appreciated; only a few other parties were there on a lovely Sunday afternoon. Go, grab some fries, and who knows? Maybe if you're lucky, the cinnamon roll fairy will smile upon you, too.

Score: 9 out of 10 (Fantastic)

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