Happy Hour Bite: Trade Winds Tavern

Most gastropubs are, let's face it, a little drab. Stepping into one, you can generally muddled brownish-gray tones, a few kegs, maybe some industrial design touches—and that's on a good day. Trade Winds Tavern, though, has a certain artistic flair. Driving by on Balboa in Kearny Mesa, the colorful punk mural outside catches your eye instantly, drawing you in through raw curiosity. Inside the theme continues: a wall painted with cyclops jellyfish, a giant game table, and... okay, some industrial decor.

I come after work for their food happy hour with surprising frequency. The other day I got the elote and the salt and pepper chicken wings. The corn, though a bit on the puny side, was sweet and pleasingly charred, doused in mayo, cotija and a little citrus. The cheese made it satisfyingly salty and funky. Adding some chili powder, though, would've brought an authentic spicy edge.

The wings were thickly battered and crunchy, as any good salt and pepper wing should be. The main flavor I got was most definitely salt, though the red pepper flakes and scallions occasionally asserted themselves. So while the texture was on point, I was thankful for the accompanying hot sauce to add some heat and flavor variation.

To be frank, the food at Trade Winds isn't mind-blowing. In fact, they've taken a couple of my preferred items off the happy hour menu. Yet I still find myself stopping by. I think it comes down to a combination of convenience, some interesting comfort food, and an offbeat vibe. A little creativity goes a long way.

Score: 6.5 out of 10 (Good)

Quick Bite: Ramen Ryoma

In my estimation, Tajima ruled the realm of San Diego ramen for years. Then, in 2017, a challenger appeared: the wildly popular Menya Ultra gave them a run for their money with an absolutely killer bowl. Still, I'm always looking for a place that can dethrone this newly-formed top tier.

Will Ramen Ryoma in Kearny Mesa be the one? Well... no. (Really built up the suspense there, didn't I?) It was good and a little different, but it didn't quite measure up.

I got the spicy miso ramen, which comes with chashu, spicy ground meat, bean sprouts, seaweed and green onion. What I really didn't enjoy was the ground meat. Before mixing it in, it was actually cold; I know it's designed to be mixed in, but it's really unappetizing in a steaming hot dish. The texture reminded me of coarse ground turkey—again, not something I especially want in my ramen.

The meat also contained all the spice of the dish, though, which diffused nicely into the broth, turning it from light and buttery to spicy and hearty. The noodles were springy and satisfyingly al dente. The best part was the chashu: a single enormously thick slab, meltingly tender and roasty. The nori was okay, though I prefer it more crisp and less... floppy. The green onion and sprouts, though, added a lovely fresh finish.

Ramen Ryoma may be aiming to start an empire; they're in the process of opening up shop in Hillcrest and Pacific Beach. Will they eventually expand enough to challenge Tajima's dominance? I tend to think not. They can make a serviceable bowl of ramen, but they'll need an infusion of personality and some culinary fine-tuning before they can take on the greats.

Score: 6 out of 10 (Decent)

Quick Bite: Chaba Thai Kitchen

Well, I'm doing it. I'm reviewing a Thai place post-Kin Khao. Chaba Thai Kitchen is a hole-in-the-wall spot in Kearny Mesa that I chose for after-work lunch mostly based on decent reviews and an $8 lunch special.

Service was prompt but not exactly cordial: The server greeted me, pointed to a seat, and handed me a menu all while on the phone with a customer. Not a great first impression.

I was immediately given a small bowl of a broth-based tofu and veggie soup that was surprisingly good. It was warm and fragrant, garlicky and spicy with a strong cilantro flavor. I'd choose it over chicken soup if I was feeling under the weather, no question.

My green Thai curry chicken combo came with a heap of white rice, a curry puff and a cream cheese wonton. These latter two were lukewarm and looked kinda sad, as they seemed understuffed and the puff was slightly stale. The flavors were decent and they probably would've been pretty tasty if they were fresh from the fryer. The flavors on the curry were pretty spot-on: lemongrassy, slightly sweet and moderately spicy, exactly what one would expect. The consistency of the curry was more brothy than creamy, though, and the bamboo shoots were a bit sinewy. In short, everything tasted right, but the textures left a lot to be desired.

Maybe it's just me—maybe my love of Thai has been broken forever—but this was really just okay. It's a pretty good value, but I can't help but think there other Thai places in San Diego that'll really nail the combination of a great meal at a low price.

Score: 5.5 out of 10 (Fair)